Road Trip Français Chapter 5: Magnifique Marseille

Passion of Christ Our Lady of the Guard, Notre Dame, Marseille

The next leg of my epic road trip through France takes us to one of my favorite cities in France: Marseille.

All of the cities and towns I visited during my journey through France have a fantastic and ancient history that will cause any reasonable history buff to nerd out, and Marseille is no exception. Founded in 600 BC by Greek mariners, the city was originally named Massalia, and has served as a major port city throughout its history. In fact, because it is a major international port, it is believed to be one of the first places in France to meet the Bubonic Plague in the 1700s, resulting in a loss of nearly half the population of Marseille.

Today, Marseille is still every bit the gritty, vibrant port city that it's been known for its entire life, full of migrants, cultures, cuisines, and dissidents. The city's past and present as a major Mediterranean port translates to a vibrant population and culture full of diversity, unique flavor, and life.

My first impression of this city, after spending time in the much quieter, subdued Lyon, was that it was Alive. Marseille has a tangible energy that reminded me of New York City, and I immediately felt at home.

The Port

The Vieux Port of Marseille is a must-see, containing so much history and action. Most days the Port features a market, perfect for finding a keepsake or some gifts to take home.

There are several Ferry Boat companies in the Port that offer affordable boat tours to the nearby islands of Château d'If and Frioul Archipelago. For the best boat deals, and to skip the lines, scope out the prices when you first arrive in Marseille, and book for another day (or do your research online and book in advance).

Notre Dame

I'm not really a fan of spending time checking out standard tourist attractions. I usually prefer to skip the mingling with hordes of tourists in favor of wandering around the streets, getting lost in the history and culture of a new city, while doing a self-guided food, wine and graffiti tour. However, there are always a few exceptions. Sometimes you just have to see what all of the fuss is about.

In this case, I was trying to figure out if this Notre Dame was THE Notre Dame (there is a Notre Dame in every single city in France). And this particular Notre Dame is perched on a steep hill, which makes for a nice little workout, plus STELLAR views of the city. So I made the hike.

View from the Top: Notre Dame of Marseille

When I made my visit, there were quite a few tourists, but it was still very easy to make my way inside the church, and it really is a beautiful sight. I would definitely recommend adding this to your agenda when visiting Marseille. It's a very short trek from the Port, but do expect to climb a few stairs.

Notre Dame Cathedral, Marseille

The Alternative Side of Marseille: Cours Julien

I was very fortunate to come across some insider knowledge of Marseille while in Embrun. While dining at the Marie Restaurant, and trying to use my limited French, I got to talking to my waiter and learned that he had lived in Marseille for several years. He recommended that I check out the neighborhood of Cours Julien, as it was the edgier, artsy, hipster neighborhood of Marseille. Maybe this isn't for everyone, but it was the highlight of my visit.

Almost every single inch of building in the neighborhood was covered with beautiful graffiti art, and the area was full of unique little restaurants, boutiques, and art galleries.

Cours Juilen, Marseille

These Poetic Streets: Course Juilen, Marseille

Like the other French cities and towns I had visited, this area of Marseille was somewhat abandoned for the month of September, with many shop owners being on Vacances (vacation), so on the downside, many of the galleries and boutiques weren't open, but on the plus side I was probably the only tourist in the area.

I stopped at a little chic restaurant to enjoy a very delicious, very French lunch. Complete with Rosé, bien sûr ;-)

Lunch Au Français

En Fin

Marseille is a brimming with diversity and adventure. And as with any city, especially in France, sometime the best way to end a day full of exploration is to find a lively square to sit in, sip a glass of wine, and be a spectator of humanity.

Because...C'est la vie.

Stay tuned for the final chapter of my Road Trip Français, as I travel on to Nice, my new home for the next 10 months.